Took quite a bit of doing, but I am finally home! I have never had so much trouble with getting on the plane to go home as I did on Friday. It started off with Iberia, which for some bizarre reason, sends passengers to different gates FOR THE SAME FLIGHT! Fortunately, I was in a group of passengers that included an Iberia executive, so when the customer "service" rep started to tell us we were hosed even though it was their fault, he got on the phone & started forcefully talking to someone (he didn't yell, but his tone of voice suggested that he was saying "get us on this plane if you value your job"). So we were whisked by bus to the opposite end of the airport (we weren't even sent to the same terminal!) & told to walk up a flight of stairs at the back end of the plane. Since the door wasn't open, the woman in front of me knocked on it. "Avon calling!" Sheesh. And here I thought the emergency exits were supposed to be used to get OFF the plane. I'm sure quite a few people at Iberia & possibly Barajas Airport no longer have jobs there.....
So we were an hour late in getting Heathrow. No problem, thinks I, since I still have over an hour to change terminals & make my connection. Oh no, says the nice BA lady who checked my boarding card. You're too late. I'm sorry, what? I was at the airport at 6:00 a.m.! No, you have to be at Heathrow by a certain time to get on your flight home. Well, she was very nice (especially when I started crying...I really hate that about myself, but I was so tired & exhausted & wanted to go home so badly, the tears started flowing). She called the gate & asked them to hold it for me, but they couldn't, so she walked me over to customer service where 2 people spent about 30 minutes getting me a seat on the flight to Houston & then a flight home. (See, Iberia, it CAN be done without making the passenger feel like garbage.)
When I got to Houston, the line at Immigration & Customs was almost out the door, thank to a flight from Mexico that was more than 2 hours late in arriving AND the fact that Homeland "Security" only bothered to put 6 people (out of 18 kiosks) on the floor to let Americans back in their own country. These were not happy people, since almost all of them had missed their connections. It took me over 45 minutes to get through that mess, then on to collect my bag & find out how to get a new boarding pass & baggage tags since IAH is obviously not DFW, where I thought I was going when I checked in at 6:00 a.m. in Madrid.
I was told to go stand in a massive line at customer service, again helpfully staffed by only 3 people & a surly teen age son of one of the employees who was not quite nice when passengers came up & started asking him questions (Listen, dummy, if you're not an employee, what the heck are you doing not only sitting at the Continental desk, but being rude about it?????) Since all these people in line needed to be rebooked on new flights, I was obviously going to be wasting an inordinate amount of time standing in line. By this point, I'd been in the international arrivals area for almost 2 hours, so I started looking for an exit.
And there it was: the sign to Ground Transportation. I figured if I could somehow get a boarding pass & go through security at this terminal, I could get to the 9th Level of Hell, aka IAH Terminal B for free using the monorail. So, I left the long line downstairs & went through the doors & into the main terminal, up the escalator & to the Continental check-in desk. The woman there gave me my boarding pass & a new tag for my checked bag & off I went to security. Quickly got to Terminal B & it was a madhouse. All the flights were delayed or cancelled & the hallway to where my gate was smelled like a bathroom. No, seriously. Got to my gate, only to find out my flight was delayed for one hour, then 2. Finally got on board the plane (with the gate agent telling us with a straight face that this was an "on-time departure." No kidding. Got home close to midnight, thanks to my friend Estella who patiently waited for me through all the delays. The Zoo was happy to see me & went to sleep surrounded by furry, purring bodies & 2 happy dogs prancing around outside.
And the airlines wonder why people don't want to fly anymore.....
Sunday, October 11, 2009
Thursday, October 8, 2009
Who was that on the Camino?
Here is a story told to me & others at our hotel by 2 women from Quebec who were walking the Camino Frances:
They were walking in the dark, about 6:30 in the morning. It was very dark & foggy (Galicia is like that) & they couldn´t see anything beyond the small lights cast by their head lamps. As far as they knew, they were the only ones walking the Camino.
All of a sudden, they smelled something like perfume (and believe me when I say that you would not mistake the usual smells of Galicia for anything resembling perfume). They couldn´t figure out where it was coming from.
Soon, they saw the figure of a man walking ahead of them. Was he a pilgrim? A local? A good person or bad? They didn´t know & began to worry. One woman said he was wearing a white shirt & had dark hair. They didn´t know whether to say anything to him, but as they began to pass him, he said "Buen Camino," as all pilgrims should do when greeting each other on the pathways. So they calmed down....he was a pilgrim...one woman turned to say "Buen Camino" back to him & noticed that she couldn´t see his face.
They passed him & for several minutes were climbing a hill. When they got to the top, they noticed that the there were 2 paths to take & no markers to indicate which was the Camino & which wasn´t. They looked around for a waymark or a milestone for several minutes, but couldn´t find one, so they just stood there. Soon the man in the white shirt came up & lifted his right arm, indicating that they should take the path to the right. As they gathered their poles to begin walking again, they turned to say "Gracias," but the man & the perfume smell had disappeared.
They never saw him in a bar or an albergue & no other pilgrims said they saw a man meeting that description.
So, who was that on the Camino?
They were walking in the dark, about 6:30 in the morning. It was very dark & foggy (Galicia is like that) & they couldn´t see anything beyond the small lights cast by their head lamps. As far as they knew, they were the only ones walking the Camino.
All of a sudden, they smelled something like perfume (and believe me when I say that you would not mistake the usual smells of Galicia for anything resembling perfume). They couldn´t figure out where it was coming from.
Soon, they saw the figure of a man walking ahead of them. Was he a pilgrim? A local? A good person or bad? They didn´t know & began to worry. One woman said he was wearing a white shirt & had dark hair. They didn´t know whether to say anything to him, but as they began to pass him, he said "Buen Camino," as all pilgrims should do when greeting each other on the pathways. So they calmed down....he was a pilgrim...one woman turned to say "Buen Camino" back to him & noticed that she couldn´t see his face.
They passed him & for several minutes were climbing a hill. When they got to the top, they noticed that the there were 2 paths to take & no markers to indicate which was the Camino & which wasn´t. They looked around for a waymark or a milestone for several minutes, but couldn´t find one, so they just stood there. Soon the man in the white shirt came up & lifted his right arm, indicating that they should take the path to the right. As they gathered their poles to begin walking again, they turned to say "Gracias," but the man & the perfume smell had disappeared.
They never saw him in a bar or an albergue & no other pilgrims said they saw a man meeting that description.
So, who was that on the Camino?
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
Fly, Butafumiero, fly!!
Well, despite all the drama with the black eyes, I somehow lucked out yesterday at the Pilgrim´s Mass. The butafumiero, for which the cathedral is famous for, was lowered the night before, to let everyone know that it was going to be swung the next day.
I got to the Cathedral before 11:30 & it was already packed. I took one look at the rope & pulley, & guessed which way the butafumiero was going to fly. (So glad I was paying attention in science class that day....remember that, kiddies....never know when you´re going to have to use Newton´s Laws.....) Took my seat in one of the cross aisles (transept????) instead of the main aisle where everyone else was crowding, so I could see the thing fly. Shortly before the service started, the singing nun came out & did her best to teach us some of the responses. I have to admit I was pretty good with the Ave, Ave, Ave Mariiiiiaaaaa & Jesus Jesus Salvatore, but had to hum some of the other responses because they were too long & I didn´t recognize the words. No matter how half-heartedly we sang, the nun smiled sweetly at us & said "bueno bueno...con mucho corazon...todos, todos" & we´d start off again belting out our Ave Marias & Jesus Salvatores.
The Pilgrim´s Mass is a regular mass, but before it starts, we all stand while the priest reads off the countries the pilgrims from yesterday came from, which route they took, & how many. I was one of Los Peregrinos de los Estados Unidos who started at St Jean Pied du Port. There were also several others from Denmark, Korea, Japan, New Zealand, Australia, Spain, France, Finland, Brazil, & Germany.
The butafumiero didn´t fly until the end of the service. Instead of the usual benediction after communion, there was a commotion at the front of the altar as the butafumiero was lowered & the men responsible for it lit it, then raised it again. Priests & nuns brought several disabled & sick people forward so they could see & also be blessed by the smoke (I suppose). Everyone with a camera or cell phone started recording & taking photos (even though it´s not permitted, this is such a rare event in the Cathedral no one was stopped from recording it). The organs started blasting out music (I always think of the processional from the Sound of Music...they didn´t play that, but have that running in your heads while you read this part).
As the butafumiero was raised, smoke & incense were pouring from it...I could smell it all the way back where I was....the men began to haul on the rope, causing it to swing. First it swung low before the altar...then they pulled harder & it went up higher....and higher....and further back along the side aisles....no way it was going to reach me, omg yes it did & :gasp: it almost hit the ceiling way above us!!!!!!!!!!!!! People on the side aisles were gasping, ooohing & aaaahing...those who took the seats in the front realized they were in the wrong place too late & only got to see it swing back & forth across the altar & in front of the statue of St. James....and just like that, it was over....an absolutely amazing experience!
After mass, I stood in line to "give Jimmy a hug," as we say. You line up & walk up some stairs behind the main altar, then you are in a little place behind the statue of St. James that overlooks the cathedral. You can put your hands or arms around him & say thanks, or touch or kiss the shell on his back. You don´t get too long to do this & you are NOT permitted to take a picture here...too personal & private, then it´s down the stairs & to the left, down more stairs to the crypt where you visit the tomb of St. James & 2 of his followers who brought his body to Spain. Whether those are his bones or not, I don´t care. It´s quite a heady experience to be looking at the tomb of someone who knew Jesus, who talked with Him & was there at the Crucifixion & Resurrection.
I got to the Cathedral before 11:30 & it was already packed. I took one look at the rope & pulley, & guessed which way the butafumiero was going to fly. (So glad I was paying attention in science class that day....remember that, kiddies....never know when you´re going to have to use Newton´s Laws.....) Took my seat in one of the cross aisles (transept????) instead of the main aisle where everyone else was crowding, so I could see the thing fly. Shortly before the service started, the singing nun came out & did her best to teach us some of the responses. I have to admit I was pretty good with the Ave, Ave, Ave Mariiiiiaaaaa & Jesus Jesus Salvatore, but had to hum some of the other responses because they were too long & I didn´t recognize the words. No matter how half-heartedly we sang, the nun smiled sweetly at us & said "bueno bueno...con mucho corazon...todos, todos" & we´d start off again belting out our Ave Marias & Jesus Salvatores.
The Pilgrim´s Mass is a regular mass, but before it starts, we all stand while the priest reads off the countries the pilgrims from yesterday came from, which route they took, & how many. I was one of Los Peregrinos de los Estados Unidos who started at St Jean Pied du Port. There were also several others from Denmark, Korea, Japan, New Zealand, Australia, Spain, France, Finland, Brazil, & Germany.
The butafumiero didn´t fly until the end of the service. Instead of the usual benediction after communion, there was a commotion at the front of the altar as the butafumiero was lowered & the men responsible for it lit it, then raised it again. Priests & nuns brought several disabled & sick people forward so they could see & also be blessed by the smoke (I suppose). Everyone with a camera or cell phone started recording & taking photos (even though it´s not permitted, this is such a rare event in the Cathedral no one was stopped from recording it). The organs started blasting out music (I always think of the processional from the Sound of Music...they didn´t play that, but have that running in your heads while you read this part).
As the butafumiero was raised, smoke & incense were pouring from it...I could smell it all the way back where I was....the men began to haul on the rope, causing it to swing. First it swung low before the altar...then they pulled harder & it went up higher....and higher....and further back along the side aisles....no way it was going to reach me, omg yes it did & :gasp: it almost hit the ceiling way above us!!!!!!!!!!!!! People on the side aisles were gasping, ooohing & aaaahing...those who took the seats in the front realized they were in the wrong place too late & only got to see it swing back & forth across the altar & in front of the statue of St. James....and just like that, it was over....an absolutely amazing experience!
After mass, I stood in line to "give Jimmy a hug," as we say. You line up & walk up some stairs behind the main altar, then you are in a little place behind the statue of St. James that overlooks the cathedral. You can put your hands or arms around him & say thanks, or touch or kiss the shell on his back. You don´t get too long to do this & you are NOT permitted to take a picture here...too personal & private, then it´s down the stairs & to the left, down more stairs to the crypt where you visit the tomb of St. James & 2 of his followers who brought his body to Spain. Whether those are his bones or not, I don´t care. It´s quite a heady experience to be looking at the tomb of someone who knew Jesus, who talked with Him & was there at the Crucifixion & Resurrection.
Monday, October 5, 2009
SANTIAGO!!!!!!!!!!
Woke up this morning in Monte de Gozo feeling weird...my last night in an albergue, so of course I had to get the room with snorers....one would stop & then the other would kick in....walked down to the place where they let the "albergue" pilgrims eat (as opposed to the turigrinos who take the bus who got to eat in the nice place with table service) & had a coffee with Desiree & Maria before they set off...see you in an hour or so!
Never caught up to them, but didn´t expect to. Made it into Santiago, all whopping 4 clicks, in about an hour & a half. Stood there in Plaza Obradoiro & couldn´t believe I was actually there. Got lost trying to find the pilgrim´s office (some yellow arrows might help---hint hint). The line wasn´t so long so I thought everyone had gotten their compostela already. There was some discussion about how to write my first name in Latin (Being a completely Irish name, it has no Latin variation), then "Congratulations," loads of tears, & then back out the door to figure out what the heck do I do now?
Went out in search of a hotel & found one, then got directions to the hospital where a doctor looked me over & sent me on my way. Fitzgeralds have hard heads, apparently.
Then back to the hotel & OMG, it´s Mark & Tracy from New Zealand!!!!!!!!!!! YAY!!! I´m running in to all kinds of people now. Can´t wait for tomorrow when I go get the stuff I mailed to myself back in August, then off to the Cathedral for the Pilgrim´s Mass & to buy my train ticket to Madrid.
Never caught up to them, but didn´t expect to. Made it into Santiago, all whopping 4 clicks, in about an hour & a half. Stood there in Plaza Obradoiro & couldn´t believe I was actually there. Got lost trying to find the pilgrim´s office (some yellow arrows might help---hint hint). The line wasn´t so long so I thought everyone had gotten their compostela already. There was some discussion about how to write my first name in Latin (Being a completely Irish name, it has no Latin variation), then "Congratulations," loads of tears, & then back out the door to figure out what the heck do I do now?
Went out in search of a hotel & found one, then got directions to the hospital where a doctor looked me over & sent me on my way. Fitzgeralds have hard heads, apparently.
Then back to the hotel & OMG, it´s Mark & Tracy from New Zealand!!!!!!!!!!! YAY!!! I´m running in to all kinds of people now. Can´t wait for tomorrow when I go get the stuff I mailed to myself back in August, then off to the Cathedral for the Pilgrim´s Mass & to buy my train ticket to Madrid.
Sunday, October 4, 2009
FACEPLANT!!
Yup, I made a spectacular face plant yesterday. Tripped over a rock & arms flailing everywhere....not fun at all. Some Spanish pilgrims dusted me off, bandaged me up & said no worries. Got a nice size lump on my forehead & now a couple of shiners, maybe, so it´s off to the hospital tomorrow once I get to Santiago. Only 5 km to go...not quitting now.....
Friday, October 2, 2009
Made it to Arzua
Three more nights on the Camino & then I´m done. I´m in Arzua tonight, maybe Sta Irene tomorrow, Monte de Gozo on Sunday, & Santiago on Monday. And this time next week, I´ll be on my way home.
The kilometers are flying by now....seemed almost impossible weeks ago that I was getting closer to Santiago......now I´m close to KM stones in the single digits....wow.
The kilometers are flying by now....seemed almost impossible weeks ago that I was getting closer to Santiago......now I´m close to KM stones in the single digits....wow.
Thursday, October 1, 2009
And well worth it, Uncle Burnham
An old family story goes like this: A poor relation came to stay with Uncle Burnham. One morning at breakfast, she was seen buttering both sides of her bread. A bit upset about this, Uncle Burnham loudly announced "Are you aware, Niece, that butter is 5 cents a pound?" Niece Whoever, in true Fitzgerald fashion, took a bite of her bread, then looked him in the eye as she responded "And well worth it, Uncle Burnham."
That´s about how I feel today. A shorter walk, but still enough to make my feet scream, and I get tossed up at some place called Cafeteria Atenas in Melide. Most pilgrims avoid Melide because the albergue has a reputation for being absolutely filthy & besides has mixed, open showers. Oh hell no. So when I asked about rooms here at this place (a sign says they can obtain rooms, not that they actually have them), the gentleman at the bar asked Con bano o sin bano? The difference is 5 Euro, so I took a habitacion con bano.
The room is spartan (ironic if you know anything about Greek mythology), but the mattress is practically new & has real sheets AND is a double, not a single, the room is spotlessly clean & the bathroom is phenomenal (compared to what I´ve been using since Leon.) No one to bang on the door 2 minutes after I lock it, claiming I´ve been in there hours & hours. No one to whine that I used all the hot water....in fact my shower lasted 10 minutes, not 3. Ja Ja Ja. No one keeping me awake by snoring or arm wrestling plastic bags......ahhhhhh.....all this for 30 Euros?
Well worth it, Uncle Burnham.
That´s about how I feel today. A shorter walk, but still enough to make my feet scream, and I get tossed up at some place called Cafeteria Atenas in Melide. Most pilgrims avoid Melide because the albergue has a reputation for being absolutely filthy & besides has mixed, open showers. Oh hell no. So when I asked about rooms here at this place (a sign says they can obtain rooms, not that they actually have them), the gentleman at the bar asked Con bano o sin bano? The difference is 5 Euro, so I took a habitacion con bano.
The room is spartan (ironic if you know anything about Greek mythology), but the mattress is practically new & has real sheets AND is a double, not a single, the room is spotlessly clean & the bathroom is phenomenal (compared to what I´ve been using since Leon.) No one to bang on the door 2 minutes after I lock it, claiming I´ve been in there hours & hours. No one to whine that I used all the hot water....in fact my shower lasted 10 minutes, not 3. Ja Ja Ja. No one keeping me awake by snoring or arm wrestling plastic bags......ahhhhhh.....all this for 30 Euros?
Well worth it, Uncle Burnham.
Wednesday, September 30, 2009
Walking through Galicia
So far it has been very pretty & I´ve enjoyed the walk, except for one thing. We are walking mostly through farm land, and that means cows & other farm animals with the attendant smells.
Ordinarily, this would not bother me, but a little over a year ago, I was in San Angelo, at the concentration camp CPS set up at the Colisseum there, just after a livestock show they had not cleaned up after. The room where we were allowed to see our clients was part of a showbarn, that had dirty hay filled with just about everything you can imagine, PLUS and ungodly amount of chemicals on top of it. It was, simply, disgusting & made many of us sick.
That´s what the smell of rural Galicia reminds me of, and it brought back a lot of memories & feelings about the FLDS case that I´d rather not have to deal with. I am still quite angry at just how low CPS sank & just what they were trying to accomplish...for all their blathering about "saving" the children, what they were really trying to do was commit genocide. The Constitutional rights of the children & the mothers were completely ignored, they were forced from their clean homes at gun point, loaded on to buses & locked up in dirty, filthy concentration camps in & around San Angelo. And then when none of them expressed gratitude for being "saved" & left in those dumps, CPS began to lie about them.
I have long believed & will always stand by this statement: In April 2008, the Nazis were alive & kicking in San Angelo, Texas. Thank God for the FLDS & everyone else in this country that several attorneys (self included) from 2 different legal aid organizations stood up to them & stopped them cold in their tracks.
Ordinarily, this would not bother me, but a little over a year ago, I was in San Angelo, at the concentration camp CPS set up at the Colisseum there, just after a livestock show they had not cleaned up after. The room where we were allowed to see our clients was part of a showbarn, that had dirty hay filled with just about everything you can imagine, PLUS and ungodly amount of chemicals on top of it. It was, simply, disgusting & made many of us sick.
That´s what the smell of rural Galicia reminds me of, and it brought back a lot of memories & feelings about the FLDS case that I´d rather not have to deal with. I am still quite angry at just how low CPS sank & just what they were trying to accomplish...for all their blathering about "saving" the children, what they were really trying to do was commit genocide. The Constitutional rights of the children & the mothers were completely ignored, they were forced from their clean homes at gun point, loaded on to buses & locked up in dirty, filthy concentration camps in & around San Angelo. And then when none of them expressed gratitude for being "saved" & left in those dumps, CPS began to lie about them.
I have long believed & will always stand by this statement: In April 2008, the Nazis were alive & kicking in San Angelo, Texas. Thank God for the FLDS & everyone else in this country that several attorneys (self included) from 2 different legal aid organizations stood up to them & stopped them cold in their tracks.
Sorry, I´ve got a cat on my lap
The best excuse out of doing anything when I was growing up was to say "I´ve got a cat on my lap." Of course, the cat actually had to BE on your lap for this excuse to work. More on this later.....
I was walking from Sarria to Portomarin & having a very bad go of it. For some reason, I felt like I was walking in sand, just couldn´t get myself going. Took me until almost noon to go 5 or 6 km. What the heck? I felt bad, because I had told all my friends from Sarria that I would meet them in Porto, & it was getting later & later in the day & I was nowhere near the town. My feet hurt too & started swearing at me. They would have made sailors blush.
I came across this little rest area & flopped myself down, almost completely spent. Along came 2 friends from Galicia, Emilia & Sonia, who asked if they too could sit. Well, I don´t own the joint & there was plenty of room, so I said sure. And we talked a bit before they dug out sandwiches, & offered me bits of each. I was starving by this point, so I accepted them. Mmmmm. We then sat & talked about where we were from & where we had started, etc, & how bad the walking that day was (Monday?). Then Emilia broke out some chocolate & I said Gracias a los Aztecas! and we all laughed. They put their bags back on & left. I kitted up a few minutes later, only to stumble down the path & find not just a bar but an albergue, 5 kms from Porto. It was absolutely beautiful. Nice garden with an herb section, overlooking the countryside. Oh, how I wanted to stay here! I started crying, and my feet decided for me. Hell no we won´t go to Portomarin today! So I stumbled into the reception, paid my Euros, and headed up to the bunks. After getting settled in, I came back downstairs & saw that this albergue had a dog and a cat, both snoring away in the sunshine. Emilia & Sonia regretfully had to leave as they were on a deadline to reach Santiago, so we took pictures & exchanged emails.
The next morning, I had breakfast at the albergue & sat outside. The cat decided he would sit on my lap, so for 30 minutes, I had a huge purring tom on my lap. People kept leaving & wondering when I was going to start off myself & all I could say was "Sorry, I´ve got a cat on my lap."
I was walking from Sarria to Portomarin & having a very bad go of it. For some reason, I felt like I was walking in sand, just couldn´t get myself going. Took me until almost noon to go 5 or 6 km. What the heck? I felt bad, because I had told all my friends from Sarria that I would meet them in Porto, & it was getting later & later in the day & I was nowhere near the town. My feet hurt too & started swearing at me. They would have made sailors blush.
I came across this little rest area & flopped myself down, almost completely spent. Along came 2 friends from Galicia, Emilia & Sonia, who asked if they too could sit. Well, I don´t own the joint & there was plenty of room, so I said sure. And we talked a bit before they dug out sandwiches, & offered me bits of each. I was starving by this point, so I accepted them. Mmmmm. We then sat & talked about where we were from & where we had started, etc, & how bad the walking that day was (Monday?). Then Emilia broke out some chocolate & I said Gracias a los Aztecas! and we all laughed. They put their bags back on & left. I kitted up a few minutes later, only to stumble down the path & find not just a bar but an albergue, 5 kms from Porto. It was absolutely beautiful. Nice garden with an herb section, overlooking the countryside. Oh, how I wanted to stay here! I started crying, and my feet decided for me. Hell no we won´t go to Portomarin today! So I stumbled into the reception, paid my Euros, and headed up to the bunks. After getting settled in, I came back downstairs & saw that this albergue had a dog and a cat, both snoring away in the sunshine. Emilia & Sonia regretfully had to leave as they were on a deadline to reach Santiago, so we took pictures & exchanged emails.
The next morning, I had breakfast at the albergue & sat outside. The cat decided he would sit on my lap, so for 30 minutes, I had a huge purring tom on my lap. People kept leaving & wondering when I was going to start off myself & all I could say was "Sorry, I´ve got a cat on my lap."
A brief conversation in Gallego
Who knew I knew so many languages? Well, not really. Gallego is a dialect of Spanish, sort of a combo of Spainish & Portuguese, whereas I and anyone else from North & South America speak the dialect known as Catalan, thanks to the conquistadores who came from Andalucia.
Anyway, the other day, I heard some birds making a racket in a tree as I passed by. Sounded like parrots, but I don´t think they have wild parrots in Europe. Down the road comes hobbling a little old man, who saw me & asked if I spoke Gallego. No, senor, hablo un poco de espanol. Ah, catalan. Si Si. He pointed to the tree where the birds were still making a racket & said that he always laughs when he hears those birds, because they remind him of pilgrims. While we´re walking, apparently we are all very quiet, no talking, but when we hit a bar or albergue, yack yack yack yack yack, just like those birds. I had to agree with him, because it is true you can find the bar or albergue by following the racket. He then wished me a buen camino & since it was afternoon, I said Buenas tardes. Only to be corrected by him, because it was still time to say Buenos dias, as la tarde was, well, mas tarde.
Anyway, the other day, I heard some birds making a racket in a tree as I passed by. Sounded like parrots, but I don´t think they have wild parrots in Europe. Down the road comes hobbling a little old man, who saw me & asked if I spoke Gallego. No, senor, hablo un poco de espanol. Ah, catalan. Si Si. He pointed to the tree where the birds were still making a racket & said that he always laughs when he hears those birds, because they remind him of pilgrims. While we´re walking, apparently we are all very quiet, no talking, but when we hit a bar or albergue, yack yack yack yack yack, just like those birds. I had to agree with him, because it is true you can find the bar or albergue by following the racket. He then wished me a buen camino & since it was afternoon, I said Buenas tardes. Only to be corrected by him, because it was still time to say Buenos dias, as la tarde was, well, mas tarde.
Friday, September 25, 2009
A couple days of rest in Leon
Arrived yesterday in Leon & thought I had made a bad mistake. I first tried the Hotel Paris, where I stayed before, only to be told it was full for days. Then headed to the turismo to get a map only to find the place where it has been for years right across from the cathedral where most of the tourists go was closed & abandoned, no forwarding address indicating its new location. The only thing in sight was the Hostal Albany, and I didn´t want to stay in a hostal after a previous bad experience somewhere else. I wanted my own room with my own bed & my own tv & my own bathroom, after weeks of sharing space with hundreds of different people & sometimes not having toilet paper in the restrooms in the morning.
Well, guess where I ended up & it´s not so bad, really. It´s actually a 2 star hotel now (sign needs updating apparently), but it´s clean, has an elevator (oh how I´ve used & abused that privilege already), the bed is comfy & I have my own bathroom, complete with tub for 45 euros. You could not get away with that price & get this quality of room (and maybe not even a clean one) in similarly-sized city in the US.
Oh to be able to spread my stuff all over the place & not have someone crab that I was taking up too much space. To be able to sleep in the dark, without emergency lights blaring in my face or someone banging on the lights either intentionally or accidentally, with no one snoring or farting or arm-wrestling plastic bags, without having to rush out by 8:00 a.m......last night was absolute heaven. I slept until 8:30. Then stayed in bed for another half hour just because I could.
I also treated myself to a massage from the famous massage guy in Leon. My body & feet are still quite happy I did, btw. He even gave me a "prescription" to take downstairs....some magnesium tablets & freeze gel. The tablets aren´t so bad, but I haven´t tried the freeze gel yet, since I´ve been resting & not walking.
Well, kinda. Walked down to the train station today to get my train ticket for tomorrow, as if oodles & skads of people are going to want to go to Sarria tomorrow (you never know). Then back to the hotel, where I noticed it was 12:40 and I had purchased my ticket at 12:03. My feet didn´t seem to be too upset about it, though, so I went off in search of the Burger King my German friends told me about the day before when we met for dinner. Oh, I haven´t had fast food in weeks.
Speaking of which, I´m really craving a Laredo Plate right now. Fajitas, avocado, chips & freshly-made salsa.......once I get home, don´t come between me & a Laredo Plate because you will lose....
I really do like Leon a lot better than Burgos. It seems more open than Burgos, more full of light & energy.
Well, guess where I ended up & it´s not so bad, really. It´s actually a 2 star hotel now (sign needs updating apparently), but it´s clean, has an elevator (oh how I´ve used & abused that privilege already), the bed is comfy & I have my own bathroom, complete with tub for 45 euros. You could not get away with that price & get this quality of room (and maybe not even a clean one) in similarly-sized city in the US.
Oh to be able to spread my stuff all over the place & not have someone crab that I was taking up too much space. To be able to sleep in the dark, without emergency lights blaring in my face or someone banging on the lights either intentionally or accidentally, with no one snoring or farting or arm-wrestling plastic bags, without having to rush out by 8:00 a.m......last night was absolute heaven. I slept until 8:30. Then stayed in bed for another half hour just because I could.
I also treated myself to a massage from the famous massage guy in Leon. My body & feet are still quite happy I did, btw. He even gave me a "prescription" to take downstairs....some magnesium tablets & freeze gel. The tablets aren´t so bad, but I haven´t tried the freeze gel yet, since I´ve been resting & not walking.
Well, kinda. Walked down to the train station today to get my train ticket for tomorrow, as if oodles & skads of people are going to want to go to Sarria tomorrow (you never know). Then back to the hotel, where I noticed it was 12:40 and I had purchased my ticket at 12:03. My feet didn´t seem to be too upset about it, though, so I went off in search of the Burger King my German friends told me about the day before when we met for dinner. Oh, I haven´t had fast food in weeks.
Speaking of which, I´m really craving a Laredo Plate right now. Fajitas, avocado, chips & freshly-made salsa.......once I get home, don´t come between me & a Laredo Plate because you will lose....
I really do like Leon a lot better than Burgos. It seems more open than Burgos, more full of light & energy.
Tuesday, September 22, 2009
And now a word from Hape Kerkeling
(thanks to Rebecca on the Pilgrimage to Santiago forum, who responded to my March of the Damned comment yesterday) it´s not cool to quote Hape Kerkeling on this forum, but here’s his bit on Calzadilla:
"I ... use the denim shirt for hiking and the city shirt, obviously, for the city. But here in Calzadilla, I leave my denim shirt on. Not only is it barely a city, but I’m still mad at the place because it hid from me until the last minute.” A page or two earlier he says “I’d sooner drag myself over the Pyrenees in the fog than try this part again.”
I haven´t cared much for Mr. Kerkeling before, but this passage is right on the mark. Yes, I would rather haul my butt over the Pyrenees in the cold & fog than walk that 17.8 km stretch of hell again.
"I ... use the denim shirt for hiking and the city shirt, obviously, for the city. But here in Calzadilla, I leave my denim shirt on. Not only is it barely a city, but I’m still mad at the place because it hid from me until the last minute.” A page or two earlier he says “I’d sooner drag myself over the Pyrenees in the fog than try this part again.”
I haven´t cared much for Mr. Kerkeling before, but this passage is right on the mark. Yes, I would rather haul my butt over the Pyrenees in the cold & fog than walk that 17.8 km stretch of hell again.
Monday, September 21, 2009
So why don´t you write about THAT in your blog?
asked Charles from Houston (yay, another Texan on the road!!!) 2 nights ago in Fromista. Everyone talks about physical preparations, but no one considers the mental aspects of it until you are actually staring at a long, steep hill that separates you from the next town, a shower, a nap, & a good meal. Or a walk like today, 17.6 km of NOTHING, the end of which quickly becomes the March of the Damned...you´re only moving not because you can see the town & the end of the day´s trek ahead of you. You move because that´s all you can do & it takes a lot of mental gymnastics to keep you interested in staying in motion.
Back to Charles, we were all talking about was the things we tell ourselves while walking or the songs we sing in our heads, or blast on our iPods. Charles tells himself macho stuff. I can´t remember what it was, but it was pretty funny. Sarah from Seville via Newcastle sings "Everybody Dance Now" to get up the long, steep climbs. And of course, "SOLDIER ON!" which everyone pretty much tells themselves at some point of the day.
Me? Well, after the Barry Manilow incident, I´ve taken to playing my high school´s 2 fight songs. Yes, we have 2. Why? Because we are the Bulldogs, the Mighty Mighty Bulldogs, that´s why. Purple & Gold all the way & BTW, the absolute best McHi class ever was the Class of 1981!
Yesterday, I needed help for the last 6 kms into Carrion de los Condes, so out came the iPod & the fight songs were played over & over & over & over.....as I told my classmates, I had to fight fight fight for every step, not every yard, but I did manage to roll the Bears (our arch-rivals, boo hiss) in the sod in the sod every time. Made it to Carrion in (dum dum DUMMMMMM) 1 hour. With a heavy pack. And sore feet. And jelly legs. Bet I could have cleared 10 km in 90 minutes.....but will try that another day.
FYI, the M-C-H-I song is the Sousa march "National Emblem" & our other fight song is the fight song of Washington & Lee. Both available on iTunes.
Back to Charles, we were all talking about was the things we tell ourselves while walking or the songs we sing in our heads, or blast on our iPods. Charles tells himself macho stuff. I can´t remember what it was, but it was pretty funny. Sarah from Seville via Newcastle sings "Everybody Dance Now" to get up the long, steep climbs. And of course, "SOLDIER ON!" which everyone pretty much tells themselves at some point of the day.
Me? Well, after the Barry Manilow incident, I´ve taken to playing my high school´s 2 fight songs. Yes, we have 2. Why? Because we are the Bulldogs, the Mighty Mighty Bulldogs, that´s why. Purple & Gold all the way & BTW, the absolute best McHi class ever was the Class of 1981!
Yesterday, I needed help for the last 6 kms into Carrion de los Condes, so out came the iPod & the fight songs were played over & over & over & over.....as I told my classmates, I had to fight fight fight for every step, not every yard, but I did manage to roll the Bears (our arch-rivals, boo hiss) in the sod in the sod every time. Made it to Carrion in (dum dum DUMMMMMM) 1 hour. With a heavy pack. And sore feet. And jelly legs. Bet I could have cleared 10 km in 90 minutes.....but will try that another day.
FYI, the M-C-H-I song is the Sousa march "National Emblem" & our other fight song is the fight song of Washington & Lee. Both available on iTunes.
Saturday, September 19, 2009
So the dirty pilgrims are carting bed bugs
Wish I could find them & give them the bill for all the damn laundry I´ve had to do today, as well as getting grilled by the hospitalero in this new albergue. I completely understand why they are being very careful & warned them about these 2 dirty pilgrims. I saw them again in Boadilla at the wonderful place there, with the same girl who slept on the bunk above me in Belorado. No wonder I got bed bugs then. It´s a wonder they aren´t covered in marks themselves! I wasn´t bitten last night at all & hopefully today I will be rid of the dang things as most of my clothes are now in the washing machine & my sleeping bag is on the clothes line, after being sprayed down with repellent. If I can get away with it, I´ll keep it in its compression sack for the remainder of the camino, or at least until I can find a public laundry & give it another once-over.
Nice walk today, the sun was out, but not too hot. The wind was not too cold. The sky was beautiful & blue, with few clouds (and no rain!). I had the camino mostly to myself, since I didn´t get up until 7, like most in the albergue in Itero last night. Tomorrow it´s on to Carrion & the flat part of the meseta. And oh yeah, once more, it was 10k in 2 hours.
Nice walk today, the sun was out, but not too hot. The wind was not too cold. The sky was beautiful & blue, with few clouds (and no rain!). I had the camino mostly to myself, since I didn´t get up until 7, like most in the albergue in Itero last night. Tomorrow it´s on to Carrion & the flat part of the meseta. And oh yeah, once more, it was 10k in 2 hours.
Friday, September 18, 2009
Another short day
Awful night last night. I kept getting bitten by something that left horrific welts, especially one under my left eye. I had gotten them before in Belorado, but washed everything in the laundry in Burgos (including the sleeping bag) & was bite-free for several days. Now I´ve got them all over me again & no laundry in sight, other than handwashing, which doesn´t work. I noticed though that I got bit on the night that 2 particularly dirty peregrinos stayed in the same room with me in Belorado & there they were again last night in Castrojeriz. So when they mentioned in Itero that they were headed towards the same albergue I was tonight, I thought no way & stopped walking here, yet another 10k day.
Tomorrow will be 13k, as there is a new albergue in Fromista I want to check out. Plus that will get me set up quite nicely for a few final stages across the meseta to Leon.
Saw a film crew & I just bet they were very impressed with my direct from the Paris cat walks Peregrina outfit complete with Altus rain poncho (that has room for my back pack so I look like Quasimodo would if he were a Smurf.) It´s all the rage! Will be on the cover of Vogue next week. Strike a pose!
Tomorrow will be 13k, as there is a new albergue in Fromista I want to check out. Plus that will get me set up quite nicely for a few final stages across the meseta to Leon.
Saw a film crew & I just bet they were very impressed with my direct from the Paris cat walks Peregrina outfit complete with Altus rain poncho (that has room for my back pack so I look like Quasimodo would if he were a Smurf.) It´s all the rage! Will be on the cover of Vogue next week. Strike a pose!
Thursday, September 17, 2009
It pays to be nice to doggies & kitties
because you never know when their person is the bar owner, who will give you loads & loads of (almost) free food because you took time to play with the doggie & kitty before ordering lunch.
I am now in Castrojeriz, kicking back after burning up 10km in 2 hours again. Me FTW! I´m going to play around for a few more days, take a rest in Leon, then off to Sarria for the Great Galician Gallop!
BTW, I get the feeling I am talking to myself, so please leave me a short message to let me know you stopped by. I haven´t heard anything from anyone in weeks and am getting a bit worried that you all have fallen off the face of the planet.
I am now in Castrojeriz, kicking back after burning up 10km in 2 hours again. Me FTW! I´m going to play around for a few more days, take a rest in Leon, then off to Sarria for the Great Galician Gallop!
BTW, I get the feeling I am talking to myself, so please leave me a short message to let me know you stopped by. I haven´t heard anything from anyone in weeks and am getting a bit worried that you all have fallen off the face of the planet.
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
I´m sorry, what´s today´s date?
I´m losing track of time, as well as the day of the week. Is this Wednesday or Thursday? Most days it´s hard to guess, but if it´s not siesta & the stores are all closed, then most likely it is Sunday. All I know about today is that it´s not Sunday because stores are open.
I´ve discovered a couple of things along the way this time. (By the way, I am in Hontanas, & yes I am taking my sweet time about it. I have about 9 or 10 more days of goofing off before I need to get myself to Sarria & get serious about this compostela thingy). Anyway, back to what I´ve discovered:
(1) I have waaaaaay too many slow Barry Manilow songs on my iPod. And my iPod has a very wicked sense of humor. Oh, so you want me to shuffle the songs so you can walk the last 5 clicks to Hontanas in good time? Ok, here´s every slow Barry Manilow song you´ve got on here. How´s that for shuffling?? No Livin on a Prayer, Theme from Rocky, or high school fight song for you. Here´s the 3rd version of Mandy you have on here, along with Could it be Magic, with a few really slow classical songs thrown in for good mix. I´ll save all the up-tempo stuff for when you´re trying to sleep.
(2) The Little People like to fool peregrinos by moving towns further away as we walk. However, once we spy the towns we are aiming for, they can´t move them anymore. Ha ha. And before you think I´m completely nuts, I would like to have you know that every other peregrino I¨ve told this theory to believes the same thing. So there.
(3) There are a lot of things I am very angry about and with very good reason. But most of all I am angry that I allowed myself to be misused, abused, mistreated FOR YEARS by an employer that never really gave a rat´s ass for me in the first place. So much so, that despite the fact that I worked for them for 11 years practically by myself, with few resources & did a damn fine job of it in spite of everything, I have yet to receive a phone call or an email from the executive director to say good bye & wish me well AND my so-called exit interview was more about how I could help said former employer use the local women´s shelter to get more grant money they have absolutely no intention of using in Laredo. So, yeah, if you get the idea that I won´t be doing you any favors in this lifetime, you´re absolutely right.
I´ve discovered a couple of things along the way this time. (By the way, I am in Hontanas, & yes I am taking my sweet time about it. I have about 9 or 10 more days of goofing off before I need to get myself to Sarria & get serious about this compostela thingy). Anyway, back to what I´ve discovered:
(1) I have waaaaaay too many slow Barry Manilow songs on my iPod. And my iPod has a very wicked sense of humor. Oh, so you want me to shuffle the songs so you can walk the last 5 clicks to Hontanas in good time? Ok, here´s every slow Barry Manilow song you´ve got on here. How´s that for shuffling?? No Livin on a Prayer, Theme from Rocky, or high school fight song for you. Here´s the 3rd version of Mandy you have on here, along with Could it be Magic, with a few really slow classical songs thrown in for good mix. I´ll save all the up-tempo stuff for when you´re trying to sleep.
(2) The Little People like to fool peregrinos by moving towns further away as we walk. However, once we spy the towns we are aiming for, they can´t move them anymore. Ha ha. And before you think I´m completely nuts, I would like to have you know that every other peregrino I¨ve told this theory to believes the same thing. So there.
(3) There are a lot of things I am very angry about and with very good reason. But most of all I am angry that I allowed myself to be misused, abused, mistreated FOR YEARS by an employer that never really gave a rat´s ass for me in the first place. So much so, that despite the fact that I worked for them for 11 years practically by myself, with few resources & did a damn fine job of it in spite of everything, I have yet to receive a phone call or an email from the executive director to say good bye & wish me well AND my so-called exit interview was more about how I could help said former employer use the local women´s shelter to get more grant money they have absolutely no intention of using in Laredo. So, yeah, if you get the idea that I won´t be doing you any favors in this lifetime, you´re absolutely right.
Monday, September 14, 2009
OMG--FAMOUS PEOPLE ON THE CAMINO
It´s been known for sometime that Martin Sheen & his son Emilio Estevez are working together on a film about the Camino. Yesterday, a few pilgrims met Emilio in San Juan de Ortega, scouting locations. Sounds like the film is on its way to being created.
Two nights ago, I was in Villoria de la Rioja, at a very small albergue run by Acacio & Orietta. Eight of us overall spent the night there. It was wonderful not having to get up until 7 (we were under strict orders not to). In fact, several Germans left after being told that they could not leave at 5 like they wanted to. Hooray, no plastic bag rustling in the middle of the night! Acacio & Orietta made us a nice meal & breakfast in the morning. The night was very peaceful--no snoring or bag rustling or talking. We just all hit the hay & went to sleep.
The next morning, I walked with Antonio from Barcelona to Belorado, where we parted. Can I say that I rock?? I walked 10k in 2 hours. Yes, I rock. It´s my birthday! It´s my birthday! Go me! Go me! He went on to Villafranca Montes de Oca, while I stayed behind at Cuatro Cantones in Belorado.
They made us dinner there too & when they read off the menu, I just couldn´t pass it up for one dish alone--cream of pumpkin soup. O.M.G. it was sooo good. The meal overall was very good too, but the soup. MMmmmmmmmmmm
I was seated at a table with 3 Spaniards, Roman, Paloma, & her sister Inines (???). Inines insisted that I speak only in Spanish, so that gave me a work out, but I understood what they said. They were very nice people, but unfortunately, their Camino ended in Belorado yesterday, and they are on their way home to Madrid & Cadiz. I´m sad because it would have been nice to see them at the end of each day, to talk over the camino & other things.
I am now in Burgos & got yelled at by a shirty hospitalero for daring to check into the albergue after (gasp) taking the bus from Belorado. I got mad because this very same shirty guy had already checked in about 4 people who were on the same bus as I was, but didn´t say anything to them! Other than that, the new albergue here is nice, similar to the new one in Santo Domingo.
Two nights ago, I was in Villoria de la Rioja, at a very small albergue run by Acacio & Orietta. Eight of us overall spent the night there. It was wonderful not having to get up until 7 (we were under strict orders not to). In fact, several Germans left after being told that they could not leave at 5 like they wanted to. Hooray, no plastic bag rustling in the middle of the night! Acacio & Orietta made us a nice meal & breakfast in the morning. The night was very peaceful--no snoring or bag rustling or talking. We just all hit the hay & went to sleep.
The next morning, I walked with Antonio from Barcelona to Belorado, where we parted. Can I say that I rock?? I walked 10k in 2 hours. Yes, I rock. It´s my birthday! It´s my birthday! Go me! Go me! He went on to Villafranca Montes de Oca, while I stayed behind at Cuatro Cantones in Belorado.
They made us dinner there too & when they read off the menu, I just couldn´t pass it up for one dish alone--cream of pumpkin soup. O.M.G. it was sooo good. The meal overall was very good too, but the soup. MMmmmmmmmmmm
I was seated at a table with 3 Spaniards, Roman, Paloma, & her sister Inines (???). Inines insisted that I speak only in Spanish, so that gave me a work out, but I understood what they said. They were very nice people, but unfortunately, their Camino ended in Belorado yesterday, and they are on their way home to Madrid & Cadiz. I´m sad because it would have been nice to see them at the end of each day, to talk over the camino & other things.
I am now in Burgos & got yelled at by a shirty hospitalero for daring to check into the albergue after (gasp) taking the bus from Belorado. I got mad because this very same shirty guy had already checked in about 4 people who were on the same bus as I was, but didn´t say anything to them! Other than that, the new albergue here is nice, similar to the new one in Santo Domingo.
Friday, September 11, 2009
Sorry for the delay
but I didn´t realize that it´s been several days since I last posted. I am now in the wonderful albergue at Santo Domingo. Brand new, just opened in May or June of this year. Fantastic new mattresses on the bunks, spacious bathrooms, huge kitchen, an actual living room with comfy sofas, and a nice internet room with new computers, 1 Euro for 1 hour. And it´s all for a donativo! (this does not, however, mean that it´s free)
So far, because of the heat, I haven´t been walking as far as I planned, but it seems that the hot weather is going away, so tomorrow, I´m aiming for Belorado, then taking the bus to Burgos on Sunday.
Have met many people from all over--Hungary, Uruguay, France, Spain, the Canary Islands, Germany, Ireland, & Denmark. And several Australians, most of whom come from Perth, amazingly enough.
This town is really neat, the cathedral even has chickens in it (their understudies live in the garden outside)! I´m going to check out the cathedral later today.
One gripe about Najera--the signage is very poor & the way into town makes it seem as though you are walking around it three times before you can get in. Makes for very hard walking in the heat. To get to the albergue, turn left immediately after crossing the bridge. Don´t follow the waymarks because you´ll go all over hell & back before finally reaching the albergue.
As I was leaving Logrono, in the park, I came across a man who calls himself "El Peregrino Pasante." He even has a sign that he puts above the table he sits at in the park, and another smaller sign that says "The pilgrim office is this way" or something like that. Reminded me so much of Lucy van Pelt´s "The Doctor is In" except El Peregrino Pasante didn´t charge 10 cents for the stamp.
So far, because of the heat, I haven´t been walking as far as I planned, but it seems that the hot weather is going away, so tomorrow, I´m aiming for Belorado, then taking the bus to Burgos on Sunday.
Have met many people from all over--Hungary, Uruguay, France, Spain, the Canary Islands, Germany, Ireland, & Denmark. And several Australians, most of whom come from Perth, amazingly enough.
This town is really neat, the cathedral even has chickens in it (their understudies live in the garden outside)! I´m going to check out the cathedral later today.
One gripe about Najera--the signage is very poor & the way into town makes it seem as though you are walking around it three times before you can get in. Makes for very hard walking in the heat. To get to the albergue, turn left immediately after crossing the bridge. Don´t follow the waymarks because you´ll go all over hell & back before finally reaching the albergue.
As I was leaving Logrono, in the park, I came across a man who calls himself "El Peregrino Pasante." He even has a sign that he puts above the table he sits at in the park, and another smaller sign that says "The pilgrim office is this way" or something like that. Reminded me so much of Lucy van Pelt´s "The Doctor is In" except El Peregrino Pasante didn´t charge 10 cents for the stamp.
Tuesday, September 8, 2009
What do you call pilgrims on tractors
Pilgrims on foot are called peregrinos. Those on bikes are called "bici"grinos.
Yesterday, I came across a new kind of pilgrim--those who go to Santiago on antique tractors! Tractor-grinos? Hmm, needs work.
The way from Lorca to Villatuerta had been relatively sparse. I know I wasn´t the last one to leave Lorca, but after Itsu & another couple had passed me, I saw no one else until the outskirts of Estella & they weren´t pilgrims who stayed in Lorca. ANYWAY, I walked into the village square & found it crowded with Guardia Civil (Spanish police) out in force & loads of tractors. Uh oh, some sort of Basque or farmers protest? Nope, turns out they were farmers from all over Spain who decided to make the pilgrimage to Santiago on their antique tractors. They were all in excellent shape & very beautiful machines. I saw a Lanz Bulldog, a red McCormick, & of course, a John Deere. Also in the parade were an old WWII era Jeep & a chuck wagon pulled by another tractor. Almost hitched a ride on one of them, at the invitation of the owner, but the Guardia Civil rightly said ¨no,¨ since the only room for me was to hold onto the driver--fine for the fields, but not the highway. It would have been fun to ride one of the tractors for a short while, though.
Made good time to Estella, but not in time to catch the early bus to Los Arcos. Got to Los Arcos & it was all booked up. Nothing to do then but wait 2 more hours for the next bus to Logrono (I figured if Los Arcos was full, everything in between it & Logrono would be full too). The very hot weather is forcing everyone off the road around noon, so albergues are filling up by 1:30 instead of 4 as usual.
Wandered around Logrono for about an hour, hot, tired, thirsty, hungry, sweaty, cranky...found a 3 star hotel & decided to go all in for 2 nights. Hotel Portales, very nice, very clean, great room, including an awesome bath, all to myself. AND free internet!
Oh, and an observation about men (since I ragged on women earlier). Back in Cizur Menor, the albergue had a small TV. Soon, most of the men, of all ages, were swarming around it, looking for some sort of sporting match to watch. They finally found one--the Tour de Spain (I think). Like watching paint dry, for me, but it kept them happy for a while.
Another observation about men--if they are with their wives, they have their wives hold everything, including their passports & credenciales. "Here honey, hold this. Here, honey, hold that." I know from years of watching my parents what is going to happen eventually. Hubby with pick up his wife´s pack & say something along the lines of "Dear God, what do you have in here anyway? You really need to lighten up your pack!" Then it will be wife´s turn to hand (or throw, her choice) back all the crap he gave her to hold for him, before heading on down the road with a much lightened backpack.
Yesterday, I came across a new kind of pilgrim--those who go to Santiago on antique tractors! Tractor-grinos? Hmm, needs work.
The way from Lorca to Villatuerta had been relatively sparse. I know I wasn´t the last one to leave Lorca, but after Itsu & another couple had passed me, I saw no one else until the outskirts of Estella & they weren´t pilgrims who stayed in Lorca. ANYWAY, I walked into the village square & found it crowded with Guardia Civil (Spanish police) out in force & loads of tractors. Uh oh, some sort of Basque or farmers protest? Nope, turns out they were farmers from all over Spain who decided to make the pilgrimage to Santiago on their antique tractors. They were all in excellent shape & very beautiful machines. I saw a Lanz Bulldog, a red McCormick, & of course, a John Deere. Also in the parade were an old WWII era Jeep & a chuck wagon pulled by another tractor. Almost hitched a ride on one of them, at the invitation of the owner, but the Guardia Civil rightly said ¨no,¨ since the only room for me was to hold onto the driver--fine for the fields, but not the highway. It would have been fun to ride one of the tractors for a short while, though.
Made good time to Estella, but not in time to catch the early bus to Los Arcos. Got to Los Arcos & it was all booked up. Nothing to do then but wait 2 more hours for the next bus to Logrono (I figured if Los Arcos was full, everything in between it & Logrono would be full too). The very hot weather is forcing everyone off the road around noon, so albergues are filling up by 1:30 instead of 4 as usual.
Wandered around Logrono for about an hour, hot, tired, thirsty, hungry, sweaty, cranky...found a 3 star hotel & decided to go all in for 2 nights. Hotel Portales, very nice, very clean, great room, including an awesome bath, all to myself. AND free internet!
Oh, and an observation about men (since I ragged on women earlier). Back in Cizur Menor, the albergue had a small TV. Soon, most of the men, of all ages, were swarming around it, looking for some sort of sporting match to watch. They finally found one--the Tour de Spain (I think). Like watching paint dry, for me, but it kept them happy for a while.
Another observation about men--if they are with their wives, they have their wives hold everything, including their passports & credenciales. "Here honey, hold this. Here, honey, hold that." I know from years of watching my parents what is going to happen eventually. Hubby with pick up his wife´s pack & say something along the lines of "Dear God, what do you have in here anyway? You really need to lighten up your pack!" Then it will be wife´s turn to hand (or throw, her choice) back all the crap he gave her to hold for him, before heading on down the road with a much lightened backpack.
Sunday, September 6, 2009
Lorca!
I´ve made it to Lorca, the small albergue on the right hand side of the street. Long hot day, dusty, boring, nothing really to see past Cirauqui, so decided early on to pack it in here. I´ll take the bus to Estella tomorrow, or even on to Los Arcos. I don´t feel too guilty about it since I have already walked this stretch.
The Roman bridge after Cirauqui needs some serious repair work. It was bad 2 years ago & now it is almost impassable. With all the money the Amigos del Camino are spending for Holy Year next year, my advice to them would be to either pour some of that into reconstructing this bridge or waymarking a new way out of town. I´m surprised no one has been seriously injured on it yet.
There was a young woman named Amaya who parked her van on the camino just before Lorca & offered passing pilgrims fresh bread, fruit, & water (with ice!) all for a donativo. Not too many were taking her up on her offer though, but I sat down & joined her & Heather from New Zealand for a bit. Then off for another couple of kilometers to Lorca.
Took me a bit longer to get here because of the rocky paths (up & down) & that were also constructed like a logic or chess game. You had to keep looking 2 or 3 steps ahead.....if I put my left foot here, then my right goes here, then my left....and on & on & on.
The Roman bridge after Cirauqui needs some serious repair work. It was bad 2 years ago & now it is almost impassable. With all the money the Amigos del Camino are spending for Holy Year next year, my advice to them would be to either pour some of that into reconstructing this bridge or waymarking a new way out of town. I´m surprised no one has been seriously injured on it yet.
There was a young woman named Amaya who parked her van on the camino just before Lorca & offered passing pilgrims fresh bread, fruit, & water (with ice!) all for a donativo. Not too many were taking her up on her offer though, but I sat down & joined her & Heather from New Zealand for a bit. Then off for another couple of kilometers to Lorca.
Took me a bit longer to get here because of the rocky paths (up & down) & that were also constructed like a logic or chess game. You had to keep looking 2 or 3 steps ahead.....if I put my left foot here, then my right goes here, then my left....and on & on & on.
Saturday, September 5, 2009
I didn´t know the climb to Alto del Perdon came with a floor show
Okay, fans, I haven´t let you down. I´ve already outdone my previous "get stuck in the bra" routine. Today on the climb down from the Alto del Perdon (see photo at left), an incredibly sensitive area of my anatomy started to itch like crazy. And I couldn´t do a thing about it. Except of course, put down my pack, do a quick right-left, then relieve the itch as much as possible. Of course, I didn´t realize there was a damn blind spot & so once I was done, imagine my surprise to see 3 very shocked elderly German men staring at me. Ooops. Welcome to Uterga, mein herrs! At least they got a good laugh out of it & didn´t say anything at the next bar (although they did buy me a coke).
I am now in Puente la Reina, waiting for my friend Christina. We got separated again, this time by a nice woman & her husband who all but kidnapped me off of the camino, forced me into their car, & dropped me off in Puente la Reina. I am not kidding about that--they would not take no for an answer, although I am saying this in jest. They were wonderful people, who took the time to go slowly so we could find Christina & give her a ride too, but she had already left the road & was back on the Camino somewhere near Obanos.
I decided I didn´t want to arm wrestle my sleeping bag today, so I haven´t released it from captivity. Rule #1 of snagging a good bed is unrolling your sleeping bag, so any bed without an unrolled bag is fair game. However, I´ve found a loophole--I put my stinky boots on the bed, as well as my backpack & other things that look manky (but aren´t--I do have to sleep there after all).
I am now in Puente la Reina, waiting for my friend Christina. We got separated again, this time by a nice woman & her husband who all but kidnapped me off of the camino, forced me into their car, & dropped me off in Puente la Reina. I am not kidding about that--they would not take no for an answer, although I am saying this in jest. They were wonderful people, who took the time to go slowly so we could find Christina & give her a ride too, but she had already left the road & was back on the Camino somewhere near Obanos.
I decided I didn´t want to arm wrestle my sleeping bag today, so I haven´t released it from captivity. Rule #1 of snagging a good bed is unrolling your sleeping bag, so any bed without an unrolled bag is fair game. However, I´ve found a loophole--I put my stinky boots on the bed, as well as my backpack & other things that look manky (but aren´t--I do have to sleep there after all).
Friday, September 4, 2009
Little old ladies are the same everywhere
I am now in Cizur Menor, having hopped the bus to Pamplona, then made the rest of the way on foot. While waiting at the bus stop with about 7 other pilgrims (see, I´m not the only one ¨cheating¨ although none of the rest have as good an excuse as "I almost died last year." Anyway, while waiting, two old ladies came up & waited for the bus. In nice dresses, shoes, jewelry, not a hair out of place. Once they saw each other though, they began to crab about the bus always being late. "I call the bus company every day & they tell me that the bus will be here at 5 to 9." "Well, the bus from Roncesvalles is always late." and on & on & on for several minutes, unti they wound down. Just in time for the bus to turn the corner & shock! It´s the little bus, not the big bus, & they started up again.
I was really trying hard not to laugh, but they were pretty funny. Three English pilgrims thought they were talking about them, but I told them "No, they´re just bitching about the bus." We all clambered on the little bus & the ladies settled down. Until we made a stop at a teeny-tiny town & another perfectly dressed lady got on the bus & gave the driver the equivalent of "Where the hell have you been?" in Basque. Which set the original 2 ladies off on their complaints again, this time with a new participant. This time, the 3 English ladies were also doing their best to not laugh.
The bus driver, a very nice lady btw, must have to put up with this daily because all the little old ladies who got on the bus talked to each other as though they were long-time friends. Her response was along the lines of "Yeah yeah, bus is late, we never send the big bus, yadda yadda yadda, do you want to get to Pamplona today or shall we just park it here?"
The rest of the trip was uneventful. Dammit.
As for the municipal albergue in Zubiri: Shades of Camp Lula Sams, with open showers & everything! (thank god there were separate showers for men & women, otherwise I would have just chucked it all in & not taken one at all, even though I looked like Pig Pen from Charlie Brown) I kept expecting Clara Hinojosa to come running in with friendship sticks & telling us we were members of Camp Smas Alul or something. Had a good menu peregrino at the cafeteria in the polideportivo. My first ensalada mixta of the season. Not much else happened there, except the guy above me must have eaten jumping beans for dinner. Everytime he rolled over (which btw was quite often), the bunk bed moved a few feet off the ground.)
I was really trying hard not to laugh, but they were pretty funny. Three English pilgrims thought they were talking about them, but I told them "No, they´re just bitching about the bus." We all clambered on the little bus & the ladies settled down. Until we made a stop at a teeny-tiny town & another perfectly dressed lady got on the bus & gave the driver the equivalent of "Where the hell have you been?" in Basque. Which set the original 2 ladies off on their complaints again, this time with a new participant. This time, the 3 English ladies were also doing their best to not laugh.
The bus driver, a very nice lady btw, must have to put up with this daily because all the little old ladies who got on the bus talked to each other as though they were long-time friends. Her response was along the lines of "Yeah yeah, bus is late, we never send the big bus, yadda yadda yadda, do you want to get to Pamplona today or shall we just park it here?"
The rest of the trip was uneventful. Dammit.
As for the municipal albergue in Zubiri: Shades of Camp Lula Sams, with open showers & everything! (thank god there were separate showers for men & women, otherwise I would have just chucked it all in & not taken one at all, even though I looked like Pig Pen from Charlie Brown) I kept expecting Clara Hinojosa to come running in with friendship sticks & telling us we were members of Camp Smas Alul or something. Had a good menu peregrino at the cafeteria in the polideportivo. My first ensalada mixta of the season. Not much else happened there, except the guy above me must have eaten jumping beans for dinner. Everytime he rolled over (which btw was quite often), the bunk bed moved a few feet off the ground.)
Thursday, September 3, 2009
I am now in Zubiri
Still on schedule, with wobbly legs & sore feet. I´ve met a couple of people from the Pilgrimage to Santiago forum, as well as 2 members of the American Friends of the Camino. And we all agree: Sil is the goddess of all things Camino!
Special thanks to my friend John who lent me his military-issue duffel. That saved me the cost of checking a bag. Apparently the agent weighed the PR backlash of charging an active military person for checking their bag v. letting one slide by, even though I told him I was not in the military & the bag was a friend´s.
Also special thanks to Estella for the ride to the airport & her cousin who secretly paid for our breakfast. What a way to start a trip!
So for today, I started hitting the bars early, as in 7:30 a.m. Before you go off wondering if I might have a (hic) problem (hic), in Spain, the only places open all day that serve food are the bars. So we stopped off for a coffee & sandwich, then headed off to the next bar. And the next. And the next. The Spanish are so polite to have bars every 5 clicks so you can stop in for a top up.
I am now in Zubiri, which is filled up quite fast because the albergue in Larrasoana is closed for the next 3 days. No reason given, but I suspect bed bugs. ICK!
Tomorrow I´m taking a bus to Pamplona to rest my legs & gear up for the climb up AND down the Alto.
Sorry no amusing tales today about getting stuck in my bra or other piece of intimate apparel. Nothing funny has happened.....yet.
Special thanks to my friend John who lent me his military-issue duffel. That saved me the cost of checking a bag. Apparently the agent weighed the PR backlash of charging an active military person for checking their bag v. letting one slide by, even though I told him I was not in the military & the bag was a friend´s.
Also special thanks to Estella for the ride to the airport & her cousin who secretly paid for our breakfast. What a way to start a trip!
So for today, I started hitting the bars early, as in 7:30 a.m. Before you go off wondering if I might have a (hic) problem (hic), in Spain, the only places open all day that serve food are the bars. So we stopped off for a coffee & sandwich, then headed off to the next bar. And the next. And the next. The Spanish are so polite to have bars every 5 clicks so you can stop in for a top up.
I am now in Zubiri, which is filled up quite fast because the albergue in Larrasoana is closed for the next 3 days. No reason given, but I suspect bed bugs. ICK!
Tomorrow I´m taking a bus to Pamplona to rest my legs & gear up for the climb up AND down the Alto.
Sorry no amusing tales today about getting stuck in my bra or other piece of intimate apparel. Nothing funny has happened.....yet.
Wednesday, September 2, 2009
I walked over the Pyrenees mountains today
what did you slackers do? hee hee
Long line so only 20 minutes this go around. I am now in Roncesvalles, having made it over the mountains just 4 short hours ago. It was fine, and the views were lovely, once the clouds went away. Thought for a while though, on the descent, that I would never find civilization & they only way they´d find my body was by watching for buzzards. And then I found wild ripe blackberries & all was well.
FYI, "Sorry, I got stuck in my bra" is not a good excuse for holding up the shower line in the ladies´ bathroom at Roncesvalles, so don´t try it. Even if it is true. On the upside, the line for the mens´ room was much longer. Ha ha, payback at last.
The flight over was uneventful, & obviously nothing went "Boom" despite the fact that I never presented by quart-sized baggie full of ¨exploding¨ toothpaste & shampoo for inspection. With sore feet & legs. And a grumbling tummy. But that´s what one gets when one is walking 4 to 5 hours a day, as opposed to faking excuses like "training" & "jury trials" to get out of helping someone else close out her cases.
Off to dinner later & mass, then to bed & off to Zubiri tomorrow!
BTW, I have met Artemis & Christina from the forum. Christina is here with me in Roncesvalles.
Long line so only 20 minutes this go around. I am now in Roncesvalles, having made it over the mountains just 4 short hours ago. It was fine, and the views were lovely, once the clouds went away. Thought for a while though, on the descent, that I would never find civilization & they only way they´d find my body was by watching for buzzards. And then I found wild ripe blackberries & all was well.
FYI, "Sorry, I got stuck in my bra" is not a good excuse for holding up the shower line in the ladies´ bathroom at Roncesvalles, so don´t try it. Even if it is true. On the upside, the line for the mens´ room was much longer. Ha ha, payback at last.
The flight over was uneventful, & obviously nothing went "Boom" despite the fact that I never presented by quart-sized baggie full of ¨exploding¨ toothpaste & shampoo for inspection. With sore feet & legs. And a grumbling tummy. But that´s what one gets when one is walking 4 to 5 hours a day, as opposed to faking excuses like "training" & "jury trials" to get out of helping someone else close out her cases.
Off to dinner later & mass, then to bed & off to Zubiri tomorrow!
BTW, I have met Artemis & Christina from the forum. Christina is here with me in Roncesvalles.
Friday, August 28, 2009
One more sleep!
Well, thanks to some rather unnecessary drama at work, I wasn't able to focus on getting packed & weighing things as I normally would. I had everything gathered in one place, though, with plastic freezer bags (gallon size) & a couple of quart-size ones for exploding toothpaste & shampoo, & just chucked them all in the pack & my friend John's Army duffel. I sort it out when I get there, I suppose.
Just a few more things to do tomorrow before my friend Estella picks me up & drives me to the airport, so the alarm is set for 5:30. Then it's off to Europe, with an 8 hour pit-stop in Houston. Sometime on Sunday, I'll be in Paris, stumbling around the airport looking for my hotel. My friend Nancy says I have to go see the Paris city lights at night. We'll see. I think all I'm going to want once I get there is a shower & a bed, but who knows?
I will only have sporadic access to the internet, so don't worry if you haven't heard from me in a few days. The earliest I'll be able to check in is Thursday or Friday.
Now that I am no longer employed, I will be able to walk without worrying about anything work-related.
Just a few more things to do tomorrow before my friend Estella picks me up & drives me to the airport, so the alarm is set for 5:30. Then it's off to Europe, with an 8 hour pit-stop in Houston. Sometime on Sunday, I'll be in Paris, stumbling around the airport looking for my hotel. My friend Nancy says I have to go see the Paris city lights at night. We'll see. I think all I'm going to want once I get there is a shower & a bed, but who knows?
I will only have sporadic access to the internet, so don't worry if you haven't heard from me in a few days. The earliest I'll be able to check in is Thursday or Friday.
Now that I am no longer employed, I will be able to walk without worrying about anything work-related.
Friday, August 21, 2009
Eight more sleeps!
Only 8 more days to go & I'll officially be unemployed for the first time in 15 years & off on my trip to the Camino. So far, 10 people have either donated blood or made a donation or helped out a worthy cause in their communities. Only 740 needed to complete my goal. NO PRESSURE, PEOPLE!
Friday, July 31, 2009
Why I am here
One year ago, I was in the hospital, slowly dying. I had plans at that time to return to Spain to finish the Camino, but God had other plans. With the help of my excellent doctors, the nurses & staff of Doctors Hospital, my friends & family, & of course, God, I recovered, but not after needing at least 15 pints of blood to keep my body going. Every day since, I have asked God to bless those 15 people & their families.
On the day that I was readmitted to the hospital, I was told my hemoglobin count was dangerously low. In fact, everyone was amazed that I was still walking, although I couldn't walk very far. I was told the transfusions were on their way, but from past experience, I knew they'd have to come from San Antonio & the earliest time they'd show up was about 12 hours. So I just lay back on the bed, closed my eyes, & prepared for the end. I was sad at the thought of leaving all my friends & family behind, & my pets, but one of the things I was most sad about was not getting the chance to finish walking the Camino Frances in Spain. At that point, I prayed that if somehow I got out of this mess alive, I would walk the Camino from St. Jean Pied du Port all the way to Santiago, & do my best to raise 1 pint of blood for every kilometer I walked. Amazingly soon after that (I think), the nurse came in with 2 pints & from that point on I was on my way back to good health.
I posted about this on my other blog, as well as the Pilgrimage to Santiago forum, and even though I was a year away from walking the camino, 5 people let me know they went to donate blood. Great! I only need 745 more to reach my goal!
So, here's the deal, McNeil: If you are able to donate blood, please go to your nearest donation center & donate a pint of blood. You have no idea what this small task means to the person who gets it, or their friends & family. Once you've donated, come back here & leave me a comment. It doesn't matter where you live, if there is a donation center or blood drive near you, just go & donate there. You are on the honor system.
If you are unable to donate blood, please consider doing some other thing for your community or making a donation to a charity you believe in & post it here.
I have my plane tickets now & my plan is to start from St. Jean Pied du Port, France on September 1, 2009. I estimate it will take approximately 34 days for me to reach Santiago de Compostela. I'll be checking in along the way to let you know how I am doing & promise to keep my comments as "kid friendly" as possible.
On the day that I was readmitted to the hospital, I was told my hemoglobin count was dangerously low. In fact, everyone was amazed that I was still walking, although I couldn't walk very far. I was told the transfusions were on their way, but from past experience, I knew they'd have to come from San Antonio & the earliest time they'd show up was about 12 hours. So I just lay back on the bed, closed my eyes, & prepared for the end. I was sad at the thought of leaving all my friends & family behind, & my pets, but one of the things I was most sad about was not getting the chance to finish walking the Camino Frances in Spain. At that point, I prayed that if somehow I got out of this mess alive, I would walk the Camino from St. Jean Pied du Port all the way to Santiago, & do my best to raise 1 pint of blood for every kilometer I walked. Amazingly soon after that (I think), the nurse came in with 2 pints & from that point on I was on my way back to good health.
I posted about this on my other blog, as well as the Pilgrimage to Santiago forum, and even though I was a year away from walking the camino, 5 people let me know they went to donate blood. Great! I only need 745 more to reach my goal!
So, here's the deal, McNeil: If you are able to donate blood, please go to your nearest donation center & donate a pint of blood. You have no idea what this small task means to the person who gets it, or their friends & family. Once you've donated, come back here & leave me a comment. It doesn't matter where you live, if there is a donation center or blood drive near you, just go & donate there. You are on the honor system.
If you are unable to donate blood, please consider doing some other thing for your community or making a donation to a charity you believe in & post it here.
I have my plane tickets now & my plan is to start from St. Jean Pied du Port, France on September 1, 2009. I estimate it will take approximately 34 days for me to reach Santiago de Compostela. I'll be checking in along the way to let you know how I am doing & promise to keep my comments as "kid friendly" as possible.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
